2022 Sadie Family Citrusdal Mountain Skurfberg Chenin Blanc
This extraordinary 100% Chenin Blanc hails from South Africa’s northernmost wine region, the arid Citrusdal Mountain WO, on the west bank of the Olifants River. Specifically, the fruit is drawn from three parcels of 90-year-old, ungrafted bush vines on the decomposed, red sandstone slopes of the Skurfberg (which means ‘rigid mountain’). Planted between 1940 and 1955, these are three immaculately farmed vineyards that have never been treated with herbicide or chemical fertilizers.
Fruit from each vineyard is vinified separately, basket-pressed, then transferred to old casks for natural fermentation. Following 12 months on lees, the wine is blended, then returned to the same casks for a further six months before being bottled directly from foudre.
Coming from the most northerly aspect of the range, the 2022 Old Vine Series Skurfberg opens with a waxy nose and notions of dusty yellow apple and Meyer lemon with white melon. Medium-bodied and with 13% alcohol, the palate reveals a fine mineral tension with a delightful kiss of sea spray before displaying a classic, food-friendly phenolic bitterness. The wine glides into a long, lingering and subtly spiced finish. Only 4,200 bottles were produced. Drink 2023 - 2037.
Anthony Mueller - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)
The 2022 Skurfberg is pure Chenin Blanc from Citrusdal Mountains at 640m altitude, whole bunch pressed into old foudres. It has a pristine bouquet with yellow plum, crushed rock and a touch of lanolin, with hints of orange blossom coming through with time. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry with touches of stem ginger and a perfect line of acidity, gently building in the mouth towards an entrancing livewire finish that lingers long in the mouth. Thrilling. Drink 2025-2050.
Neal Martin - Vinous