
- 95
- 98
- Organic
2022 Ponce Bobal
Tucked away in Manchuela, roughly two and a half hours south of Madrid, Juan Antonio Ponce is quietly producing some the best value Spanish wines. After honing his craft under Telmo Rodriguez and spending a formative stint in Beaujolais, Juan Antonio returned to his family's 80-year-old vineyards in Iniesta to prove that the often-maligned Bobal grape could be a vehicle for world-class elegance rather than just rustic bulk wine. By farming 70 hectares of high-altitude, dry-grown vines with incredibly low density, he maintains a meagre average yield of just 2 tonnes per hectare, resulting in a modest annual production of 170,000 bottles that prioritise concentration and freshness. His signature move is a 100% whole-cluster fermentation for all his reds, a technique that, combined with the region's nutrient-rich soils and 800m+ elevation, produces wines that are remarkably fragrant, poised, and powerful.
Other Reviews...
The eponymous red 2022 Ponce was produced with 80% Bobal from granite soils and 20% Moravia Agria from limestone and clay. It fermented with 100% full clusters in open-top 4,500-liter oak vats and finished fermenting and aging in a single 7,000-liter oak vat for 11 months. It has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.6 with 5.7 grams of acidity. This has something in common with the La Estrecha from this same vintage, with a more ethereal profile, both with changes in the élevage toward larger volumes that give the wines more relaxed, less tight personalities. Complete, balanced and harmonious from very early on, this is a great vintage for this wine. 7,000 bottles were filled in September 2023. Drink 2024-2032.
98 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
This is a much better bottle than the one I had last year, which was riper and fruitier. This one is quite different, with attractive white pepper, minerals, red sour berries, citrus and iron. Very firm and linear, with chalky tannins and a long, streamlined finish. Medium-bodied and very fine-boned. Drink now or hold.
95 points
Zekun Shuai - JamesSuckling.com
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