2021 Joseph Colin Saint-Aubin OSA Premier Cru
Joseph Colin initially trained at Domaine Marc Colin, working alongside his brother, Pierre-Yves, to make the family wines. In 2016, Joseph decided to create his own Domaine, and, subsequently, inherited just over six hectares of vineyards from his family holdings, representing about nineteen different appellations, to start his exciting new venture. Keeping yields low, Joseph picks on the early side to retain an unmistakable purity and freshness in his wines. He likes the tension and vibrancy in his whites, and feels it is a signature of his output. Purity is a word that Joseph particularly associates with his wines, since he doesn't like heavy handed or reductive and oaky wines, but rather he allows the different terroirs to shine through truly in the glass. The wines display a tense and vibrant profile, championing minerality and finesse yet there is a comforting richness in the mid-palate.
OSA is an ancient name for Saint-Aubin, and is a blend of four premier cru plots that were all too small to be bottled separately; Sentier du Clou, Combes, Roches Dumay, and En Vermarain.
A markedly restrained if pretty nose grudgingly offers up its array of citrus, floral and mineral reduction notes. The racy and very sleek medium-bodied flavors exude a bracing salinity on the firm, compact and linear finish. This is notably austere and a bit lean though my sense is that this will flesh out with bottle age. With that said, I would advise buying this only if you have the intent to cellar it. Drink through 2028+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
A blend of Sentier du Clou, Combes, Roches Dumay, En Vermarain, which were all too small to be made separately, the most coming from Sous Roche Dumay. This will be named something along the lines of Cuvée de l’Oratoire, but the decision had not been taken at the time I tasted. Pale lemon colour, while the nose is quite discreet, quite lean on the tenser end of the spectrum, with various different citrus fruits including a bit of orange rind. Medium plus length. Drink from 2024-2027.
Jasper Morris MW - Inside Burgundy