- Nick's Import
2020 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang
Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the global benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and there is no bigger name or more highly regarded producer in the area than Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Now under the guidance of Didier's talented son Louis-Benjamin, the wines still follow his ethos that authentic Pouilly Fumé requires healthy fruit from low yielding, old vines to produce the purest, and most intense and vibrantly fresh wine. That's not to say these wines are typical of the appellation. Given the severely low yields and approach to élevage, Dagueneau wines emphasise a creamy texture rather than bracing acidity, and combine mineral flavours with exotic fruits to supreme effect.
Pur Sang is a superstar in the Dagueneau cellar, and is widely considered one of the great white wines of the world. The close planted vineyard is situated about five kilometres north of Saint-Andelain, with a generous layer of flint and silica clay soils.
Forget aromatic Sauvignon, the 2020 Pur Sang is clear, pure and restrained. An evident nutty note to this is likely derived from the 20-25% new oak employed for all the Dagueneau cuvées. The oak combines with ripe, white stone fruit and almond meal, which lingers on the taut, grippy finish, and reveals that this wine is still in its infancy. Drink 2023-2032.
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous