2019 Conterno Nervi Gattinara Vigna Molsino

The Nervi estate is the oldest in the DOCG of Gattinara, north of Piedmont, founded in 1906 by original owner Luigi Nervi. A long time admirer of the wines and friends of the owners at the time, Roberto Conterno (of Giacomo Conterno fame) purchased a 90% stake in the winery in 2018, renaming it Conterno Nervi. A relatively new designation, Gattinara became a DOCG in 1990, and while the wines show similarities to those of Piedmont, generally Gattinara reds have a more elevated feel, savoury and structured, with plenty of acidity and fine tannins allowing for great longevity.

Located on the western border of the DOCG, sitting up at 420 metres, Molsino is the largest of the vineyards and faces mostly in a classic south-west exposure. It has a natural amphitheatre shape, which helps retain plenty of perfect Nebbiolo ripening warmth – required at these cooler areas. Fermentation and maceration is exactly the same as for the ‘Valferana’ but the ‘Molsino’, though tightly wound on release (perhaps even more than ‘Valferana’), opens up and can be lush by comparison, still underpinned by evident structure and tang, but more generous with cherry, plum and balsamic (local bush sage) over and above.

Other Reviews....
The 2019 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding wine. Smoke, incense, licorice and leather open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A wine of tremendous persistence and presence, the Molsino is so impressive in 2019. It is also embryonic and in need of cellaring. The only question is how long. Time in the glass brings out the wine's natural resonance, offering a glimpse of what will come in time. Drink 2029-2049.
97 points
Antonio Galloni - Vinous