2017 Dr Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Unterst Pichler Alte Reben Reserve Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Dr Loosen is one of the most respected names in the Mosel, and has been in the same family for over 200 years. Current custodian Ernst Loosen works with some of the finest vineyards in the area, and since 2011 he has pushed the boundaries further in an attempt to better express three unique terroirs. Working with Wehlener Sonnenuhr (blue slate), Urziger Würzgarten (red volcanic soil), and Erdener Pralat (red slate), the Grosses Gewachs Reserve wines hail from the finest parcels of ungrafted vines in each vineyard. Fermentation occurs naturally as with the regular GG wines, however the wines are held on full lees for 24 months, before an additional 24 months in bottle. This additional maturation approach lends greater balance and a deeper degree of vineyard expression to these wines.
Due the rich, red volcanic soils, Urziger Wurzgarten produces wines unlike any other in the region. As the name would suggest, expect an exotic and spice laden Riesling that leans more towards tropical fruit flavours than the neighbouring vineyards.
The 2017 Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichler Réserve Alte Reben is deep and noble on the intense yet pure, refined and elegant nose that offers a subtle bouquet with elegant sur lie and ripe (mirabelle) fruit aromas. Full-bodied, lush and round on the palate, with nutty notes, this is a very fine, vital and elegant Würzgarten with frisky, saline acidity that leads to a very elegant, intense and juicy, saline and finely bitter finish. This is a gorgeous Riesling from the Würzgarten, and it will be released in March 2023. Only 2,481 bottles made. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. Drink 2023 - 2050.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Aug 26, 2022)
Russet pear peel and ripe, golden pear juice appear first on the nose of the 2017 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter Grosses Gewächs Alte Reben Réserve. The palate has a wonderfully light texture and yet is dense with flavor and a smooth richness suggesting dried lemon peel, pear peel, subtle wax and tingling notions reminiscent of spiced apple. The finish is poised, extended, absolutely elegant and defined by ripe lemon freshness. Compact, concentrated, serene. (Dry). Drink 2023-2050.
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
What a beautiful combination of toastiness, candied citrus and pineapple plus notes of dried strawberry and allspice this stunning Wurzgarten GG has. Great concentration and power, yet still only medium-bodied this has an impressive vitality for its age at the compact long finish. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com