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  • 93

1999 HPR Pinot Noir

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
$39. 99
Bottle
$479.88 Dozen
Closure: Cork

In a word this is an exceptional Pinot Noir. We taste a lot of Pinot Noir, but are impressed by very few. The wine was made by a Pinot fanatic – and inevitably that is the first requirement to achieve greatness. Winemaker Hugh Robinson first planted D5V12 Pinot Clones in 1988, and subsequently followed it up with a further planting of MV6 clones, together with Burgundy clones 114 and 115. Mumbo jumbo you say – no way! The selection of the right clones is of paramount importance, and the reason many believe that New Zealand has stolen the march on Australian Pinot producers. Robinson began the quest to produce a world class Pinot 3 years ago, and wanted the wine to express the terroir of his vineyard.

We said earlier that Robinson is a fanatic pinophile, and this is further evidenced by the fact that he wanted to do all the viticultural work himself – anyone that has pruned vines in the middle of winter will know what we mean! The result was a crop level of just over 1.5 tonnes to the acre, that’s equivalent to the cropping level that is permitted for Grand Cru Burgundy. Hugh Robinson’s obsession does not stop yet. Once harvested the grapes underwent a variety of fermentation techniques, including, pigeage (that’s the French word for bare foot trampling).

THE RESULT IS AN OUTSTANDING WINE BY ANY MEASURE, AND ON A VALUE FOR MONEY BASIS, A BARGAIN!

We tasted this wine out of barrel in February this year and again a few weeks ago. The colour hue has dropped off slightly but we expect it to pick up since the wine has only recently been bottled. Very deep brick red colour. Superb nose, with all the qualities associated with a great Pinot Noir. Excellent counter points between fruit and game with pronounced aroma of spice, aniseed, raspberry, strawberry and cherry over game and cinnamon oak end note. The palate displays that wonderful Pinot ‘power wave’ that starts off quietly and builds up a momentum and flavour force that is treasured and savoured by all who seek out the qualities of the variety. Velvet smooth tannins are embraced by flavours of cherry, strawberry, spice and aniseed. Totally mouthfilling and explosive! A flavour that persists for minutes on the aftertaste. If you want to discover what the fuss is all about in seeking out great Pinot Noir, then this is the wine that will point the way. STOCKS ARE VERY LIMITED.

RATING: 93/100

VALUE: XXXXX/5