Hugues Godme ChampagneOver the course of a year we're fortunate to taste numerous Champagnes from both large houses and small grower producers, and they're often very good. And yet every so often a producer presents a collection of wines that really get our attention, they outright command our attention, and it's hard not to get excited by them. The wines of Hugues Godmé have appeared in Australia before while under the Godme Pere et Fils label, but following recent disagreements over wine making philosophy with his sister, Hugues is going it alone and the results to date are exceptional. Each wine is intense in flavour, but they're best described as being tightly coiled rather than austere, and will age very well. The non-vintage wines also have a remarkable depth and complexity owing to the unusually high percentage of reserve wines in the blend, often between 40-70%, including up to six vintages in the final wine.