2019 Place of Changing Winds Bullengarook Chardonnay

Other Reviews....
It comes from a parcel of vines planted to a density of 12,000 vines/hectare. In 2019 these vines produced a collective 900kg of grapes. It went into two new barrels – 300L and a 228L – before being transferred into an older, neutral, 500L cask, before then going into tank for a number of months prior to bottling (by gravity). 100% went through malo.
It’s a deft skewer. It takes understatement and gives it some character. It’s a nectarine-based wine threaded with brine, bran, chalk and anise. It feels quite incredibly pure. There’s a subtle milkiness to the texture; so subtle in fact that if it was a joke you wouldn’t get it until you were half-way home. Nothing about this wine is fruit-forward but it’s not mean about it; it’s like looking at velvet drapes just as they begin to draw open. It’s just beginning. The show’s about to start.
94 points
Campbell Mattinson - The Wine Front