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2017 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve Magnum (1500ml)
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- ABV 14%
- Closure: Cork
Even though technology has invaded many wineries in the Rhone, Laurence Feraud and her father Paul, of Domaine Pegau have earned a reputation as 'Traditionalists'. The Cuvee Reservee is an illustration of just this stance. Hand harvest and hand sorting, no destemming and the different varietals of the cuvee co fermented together by indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks without temperature control.
Laurence Feraud's influence on the estate is increasingly palpable, however there is no doubt that Paul stays on as the inspiration for everything that happens in the vineyards and winery. All up, it makes for a winning father and daughter team that Chateauneuf fans can embrace.
Domaine du Pegau Reserve is produced from 85% Grenache, 9% Syrah and 4% Mourvedre, Counoise and other varieties. The grapes are not destemmed, and the natural yeast fermentation is completed in traditional, cement vats before ageing an average of 24 months in old foudres.
The 2017 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée hits the standard assemblage: 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 10% "others." Still in cask at the time of my visit, it has expressive floral and garrigue notes, plus hints of star anise layered over a base of black cherries. Full-bodied, deep and rich, this looks like a vintage to set aside for a while, with at least 15 years of longevity ahead of it.
Joe Czerwinski - Wine Advocate (Aug 2019)
Deep shimmering ruby. A highly perfumed nose displays scents of ripe red and dark berries, candied lavender, licorice, smoked meat and white pepper, and a building mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and deeply concentrated yet lively as well, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that spread out and become livelier with aeration. Closes youthfully chewy, sweet and extremely long, with slow-building tannins adding shape and solid grip. There's no Cuvée Da Capo in 2017, incidentally.
Josh Raynolds - Vinous (Dec 2019)
Not yet bottled, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée is a normal blend of 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and the rest assorted varieties (not destemmed), brought up all in foudre and old barrels. It has classic Pégau notes of ground pepper, earth, meat, truffle, and blackcurrants as well as medium to full body, good density, building tannins, and a great finish. Laurence compared this vintage to 2005, but I think this 2017 has more density and flesh. It’s a beautiful, classic Pégau that reminds me a slightly toned down 2009.
Jeb Dunnuck (Aug 2019)