2004 Diplomatico Single Vintage Rum (700ml)

Following the superlative 2000 (ranked as one of the finest rums we've tasted to date) comes the latest instalment in Diplomatico's Single Vintage series, a culmination of Nelson Hernández's vision to create a statement from every standout season: When conditions in the field concentrate the sugars in the cane, it favours the production of the very finest grades of rum. 2004 was another remarkable vintage, also yielding one of the lowest allocations on record.

Like Diplomatico's $300 flagship, this is a 100% pot still effort with a maturation reserved for luxury bottlings, less the prohibitive mark up of the luxury market. Following twelve years in x Bourbon barrels, it was finished for twelve months in x-oloroso Spanish sherry casks. Presented in a reverse tapered, heavy set base bottle with the cork inset into a weighty high quality metal stopper, the result is made to impress from the inside out.

Tasting note: First impressions don't count for much in this superb rum that demands extended breathing. Tasted over several days, it continued to build richness and complexity, much like an older sherry matured whisky. As with previous vintages, this beams like polished mahogany. Initially shy, ample air contact releases heady aromas of crème caramel, old muscat, dates, dilute maple syrup and baklava, as well as drier notes of peppercorn and cedar. Medium bodied, yet densely packed with flavours of molasses, café-cremes, milk chocolate and liquorice bullets, balanced by delicate astringency and a burst of cinnamon warmth. The finish injects a second rush of sugars, leaving a residue of banana cake and a medley of dried fruits. Style wise, this takes a slightly different trajectory to the 2000 and 2002, retaining all the complexity and nuance you'd expect, while showing more restraint, oak and spice as well as serious staying power; it's in a league that resembles great brandies. The rewards are in patience. 43% Alc./Vol.