1996 Giaconda Chardonnay

This is the style that winemaker Ric Kinzbrunner is most happy with, but we some difficulties. His assistant described the wine as being, 'funky' and when quizzed on the meaning of the term 'funky' revealed that it referred to the dirty matchstick, sulphurous aroma which was a characteristic of old style winemaking. A clean nose by no means, however it is a complex nose, with an unusual dimension when compared with contemporary wine making.Deep straw, pale gold colour. The 'dirty' matchstick nose is quite apparent and seems to dissipate after a minute or two - its not that it disappears, it just that the nose gets overloaded with 'funky' molecules and ceases to recognize them after a while. On the palate, the wild yeast flavours abound and contribute considerable complexity with flor yeast, biscuit and nut flavours dominant. The acidity is holding up. Long, nutty flor aftertaste.

RATING: 88/100

VALUE: XXX/5