1988 Penfolds Grange Hermitage Magnum (1500ml)

Regional sources: Kalimna (Barossa Valley), Barossa Valley, Padthaway & McLaren Vale.

Grape varieties: 94% Shiraz & 6% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alcohol: 13.5% Total acids: 7.6 grams per litre. pH: 3.36

Growing season: Ideal growing season conditions, followed by a warm, unhurried vintage.

Comments: First vintage to use Padthaway grapes. Considered by some to be an uncharacteristically soft, fruity Grange.

Tasting notes: size> The '88 [barrel sample] was in many respects the most surprising: while the much warmer [than 1987] vintage has resulted in opulently ripe (yet not jammy) fruit, the tannins are less aggressive than would have been expected. An interested observer (and taster) throughout the proceedings was Max Schubert, and this was his pick of the wines between '83 and '88. (James Halliday, Weekend Australian, Dec. 1988)

Youthful hue and a nose of cherry/plum and coconut/vanilla which seemed less overtly woody than most newly-released Granges. Beautiful, lush, layered flavour, masses of fruit, in excellent harmony, and while it may not become a classic Grange, promises to drink relatively early. 1998-2020. (Huon Hooke, 1993)

An earlier-drinking Grange vintage, which nevertheless needs another five or six years to build typical mature Grange character, and should then drink for 15 years. There's the usual rich, concentrated fruit and generous oak, the wood perhaps less obvious than usual, with plenty of plummy Shiraz fruit. In the mouth, it's sweet and full, with violets and licorice tones and no heaviness or excessive tannins. Another superb Grange". (Huon Hooke, Sydney Morning Herald, Aug. 1993).

Less oaky than most vintages, elegant even: tightly structured cherry, plum, violets and licorice flavours with coconutty oak touches, firm tannin. (Huon Hooke/Mark Shield, Penguin Good Wine Guide, 1994-95)

Highly perfumed and concentrated wine with sweet, cherry/plum/licorice aromas and vanillin oak. Rich, multi-layered palate with opulent plum and chocolate-like flavours. Sweetness of fruit combines with well-balanced, fine-grained tannins, resulting in a wine with excellent structure and great generosity of flavour. (Rewards of Patience, 3rd ed., 1994)

Great harmony and flavours. Dusty, integrated oak in balance with generous plum/raspberry-like fruit. Gaining in weight and structure. (Ultimate Grange Experience, Nov. 1994)

"Medium red- purple. Scented and exotic wine with lifted raspberry/ cherry/ gamey fruit and cedar/ vanillin/ marzipan characters. Elegantly proportioned with fleshy blackberry/ cherry fruit and smokey nuances, finely grained tannins and excellent length. Probably a medium term Grange, but has seductive texture and structure. Drink between now and 2015." (Southcorp Wines, The Rewards of Patience, Fourth Edition, March 2000)