• 93

Candolini Bianca Grappa (700ml)

ITALY
$84. 99
Bottle
$1019.88 Dozen
ABV: 40%

One of the oldest labels in the highly competitive market for Italian grappas, Candolini is made from several varieties including Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Cabernet, Aglianico and Falanghina. A point of difference here is the use of 85% free-run grape juice as well as pips and stems, rather than the residue alone. Powerful aromas open with candle wax, fruit and herb bread, becoming fresh crushed grape-like with a sweet sultana core. The palate is soft at first, building concentration in a juicy grape and dried fruit flavour burst, gentle spices adding depth. Light, fresh and clean showing excellent balance and persistence, the final stages are delicately warming and waxy, with the earlier dried fruit notes lingering. 40% Alc./Vol.

Other reviews... As grappas go, Candolini Bianca — made by Fratelli Branca and a top seller in its homeland of Italy — is as light on its feet as they get. That pungency that unaged grappa unilaterally shows is front and center on the nose, but those typically musty notes here instead come across with aromas of roasted mushrooms, rosemary and sage, and burning underbrush. Time in glass helps things to meld, revealing a complex — yet intensely earthy — character. On the palate the grappa shows off an interesting floral character — honeysuckle blended with toasted almonds, brown butter, and more of that lingering mushroom character, though this time it’s more akin to mushrooms sauteed in butter with a spray of fresh herbs on top. The lengthy finish offers hints of lemongrass, marzipan, and more sage notes. Grappa is definitely an acquired taste, but Candolini’s expression is an interesting and expressive entry to the category. - drinkhacker.com