2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru Ancienne Cuvee Carnot
Around 60% of the crop that informed Bouchard’s 2008 Volnay Caillerets Ancien Cuvee Carnot was spared by the July hail, and around 40% of that remainder declassified. But these circumstances still leave 8-9,000 bottles worth, which I tasted from tank. Musky narcissus, smoky Lapsang black tea, and black fruits on the nose lead to a silken-textured yet invigorating, subtly tart but berry-ripe palate suffused with chalk and savory salinity. This finishes with precisely the sort of “animated interchange of fruit, mineral, and inner-mouth floral elements” I credited to the 2006, and here the effect is both strikingly buoyant and positively reverberative. A bottle opened 24 hours earlier (for Michel Bettane, as it happens) had not lost any of its allure. I would look for at least 15 years of excitement.
David Schildknecht – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate
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